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Coat of embroidered silk damask for a Mandarin's wife, China, early 19th century

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  • 1801 / 1825, China
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  • Coat of embroidered silk damask for a Mandarin's wife, China, early 19th century (en)
  • Coat of dark blue plain weave silk damask, for a Mandarin's wife. The ground is self-patterned with butterflies, chrysanthemums and peonies. The main body of the coat is embroidered in coloured floss silks in satin stitch, long and short stitch, and gold thread in couched work and shows five-clawed dragons chasing pearls among coloured clouds. There are also smaller motifs scattered on the garment. These are: many different species of bird, bats, flowers and sacred objects. The coat also bears the attributes of a fourth rank civil Mandarin (a flying duck) in panels on the breast and in the middle of the back. These rank badges are not applied onto the coat but directly embroidered onto the garment's ground. At the hem are the stripes design of standing water (<i>lishui</i>) and the sacred mountains appearing amid the waves. The coat is front fastening with five flat gilt buttons. It has long and wide sleeves with straight cuffs, a small stand-up collar, and short slits at the sides. All the borders (neck, opening flap, cuffs, hem and side slits) are edged with a narrow, bias-cut black satin band. Above the side slits, the trim follows the shape of a <i>ruyitou</i> (scroll). The garment has a coral pink silk plain weave lining. (en)
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dc:identifier
  • T.57-1955
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  • Coat of embroidered silk damask for a Mandarin's wife, China, early 19th century (en)
  • Coat of dark blue plain weave silk damask, for a Mandarin's wife. The ground is self-patterned with butterflies, chrysanthemums and peonies. The main body of the coat is embroidered in coloured floss silks in satin stitch, long and short stitch, and gold thread in couched work and shows five-clawed dragons chasing pearls among coloured clouds. There are also smaller motifs scattered on the garment. These are: many different species of bird, bats, flowers and sacred objects. The coat also bears the attributes of a fourth rank civil Mandarin (a flying duck) in panels on the breast and in the middle of the back. These rank badges are not applied onto the coat but directly embroidered onto the garment's ground. At the hem are the stripes design of standing water (<i>lishui</i>) and the sacred mountains appearing amid the waves. The coat is front fastening with five flat gilt buttons. It has long and wide sleeves with straight cuffs, a small stand-up collar, and short slits at the sides. All the borders (neck, opening flap, cuffs, hem and side slits) are edged with a narrow, bias-cut black satin band. Above the side slits, the trim follows the shape of a <i>ruyitou</i> (scroll). The garment has a coral pink silk plain weave lining. (en)
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  • 1801 / 1825, China
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