Fine chain stitch embroidery of this type was made by professional male embroiderers of the Mochi community in Gujarat in western India. It was worked with both a hook, called an ari, and a needle. Originally developed for embroidering on leather, for items such as belts, floor-coverings and shoes, the ari-work was adapted for use on cloth, and soon attracted the attention of western travellers to Gujarat. The East India Company exported these embroideries from the port of Cambay (modern Khambat), and they were known as 'Cambay embroideries'.
This piece is an early example of the type, and was used at Ashburnham House in Sussex, along with chintz hangings of very similar design. The deep blue is produced by indigo dyeing, and the pink of the flowers by the use of lac, a dye secreted by the insect Kerria lacca kerr.