A silk, woven, patterned textile fragment. Striped and banded lampas. Ground of 3:1 twill, Z direction. The warps change colour to create a striped fabric. The pattern is creating using lisere effect of the ground warp and lance effect of the supplementary weft, also of changing colours. The design includes a band of colour and rows of patterned motifs (including floral motifs, balls, oblong shapes, spinning tops). The pattern is bound by the binding warp in a plain weave over ΒΌ of the [double] warp ends.
Warp
Ratio 4 (doubles):1
1) ground
silk, x-ply, S twist, doubles [with occasional singles - perhaps 1 single to 14 doubles]
purple, cream, light green, dark green, blue, bronze
app. 80 ends cm
2) binding
silk, 1 ply, slight S
red
Weft
Ratio 1:1
1) ground (lisere)
silk, x-ply, STA, thick
olive green/straw intermingled
app. 20 picks cm
2) supplementary lance
a) silk, x-ply, STA, thick
dark green, cream, purple, yellow, light orange, dark orange, red
b) gilded paper - metallic (gold alloy?) paper strips (lined one side only)