Woven plain weave silk embroidered with silk in flat stitch and couched metal thread with a similar border, faced with woven silk and backed with plain weave silk.
The central panel [75 x 73.5 cm] has a dark blue ground with a central 8-lobed medallion in silver containing a small silver central lozenge surrounded by two pairs of pendant motifs; lobed triangles and two more complex motifs with extended tendrils and leafy stems in silver-gilt. Silver-gilt curving lines frame the triangles and a subsidiary silver line interlaces. Silk threads are used for details.
There are four corner motifs: a pair of highly decorated feathery leaves frame an intricately lobed composite blossom from which emerge stems bearing leaves and blossoms at either end in gold. These curve to meet in a rosette set between each of the corner motifs. The composite blossom is mainly silver-gilt with a silver centre and silk details. The leaf is mainly silver and the rosette mainly silver-gilt and silk in blocks of three straight stitches in pink 2S silk.
The coloured silks are also 2S and the couching is worked in twill: light pink, white, light green, light blue, coral, all outlined with a metal thread. The metal thread is silver strip close S-wound on white S-twist silk and silver-gilt strip close Z-wound on Z-twist cream silk.
Border: pieced before the embroidery was worked. Light green plain weave silk with a curving silver-gilt stem linking 3 types of blossoms
[1] 5-petalled rosette in light blue and coral
[2] a wreath in dark blue, gold, coral
[3] a palmette in gold, dark blue, coral and green.
There are subsidiary silver stems with pink details. There is evidence of black silk outlines and ink under-drawing.
Facing: Bias-cut dark blue satin with a small ogival lattice woven with silver-gilt open S-wound on yellow silk core. At each junction there is a 4-petalled rosette. The pattern repeats every 6th row:
[1] three 5-petalled flowers in white or red
[2] a single bloom in pink and white or red and blue
[3] three 5-petalled rosette in white or red
[4] a spray of three flowers in red and blue or white and pink
[5] three carnation-like flowers in white or red
[6] a central blossom in light blue or red framed by a red budding stem or white or pink framed by a white budding stem.
Backing: pieced plain weave dark red silk.