Silk, wool, and cotton, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of 2:2 'S' twill weave; patterned areas of warp-float faced 3:1 'S' twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 'S' twill interlacings; main warp fringe; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment