This piece of brocade is an example of kincob. This anglicised term of uncertain origin, means a rich silk fabric with patterns woven in a weft thread of gold and silver-wrapped thread (zari), made by wrapping gold or silver wire around a silk core (kalabuttu zari). Kincob was usually sold by weight. Varanasi (Benares), an important centre of fine weaving from ancient times, developed as a silk weaving centre during the Mughal period and still has many fine silk weaving workshops.