This type of jacket is called a ‘jimbaori’, a style of garment that developed in the 16th century as a weatherproof surcoat to be worn over armour. When this example was made, Japan was at peace. Jimbaori no longer had to withstand the rigours of battle. Instead they were worn purely for ceremony, and were designed to reflect the power and status of the samurai. This jimbaori has been made from imported wool known as rasha which has been treated and shrunk to give it a felt-like texture. As well as being warm and durable wool, with its European origins it had an exotic appeal. The lining is of dark-blue silk woven in gold with a design of dragons. The elaborate epaulettes are made of layers of thick paper covered with stencilled deerskin, gold-wrapped cord, black and purple wool and blue braid.