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The design of this silk has a 'point' or mirror repeat typical of the 1720s. The formal, balanced effect was influenced by French design, but the airy pattern here, on a clear white ground, shows the delicate and naturalistic style Spitalfields designers achieved using such well observed motifs as uncurling fern fronds. [27/03/2003]Three pieces of brocaded silk, from a dress, with a floral pattern on a white ground with stems and leaves in green and flowers in coloured silks.
Brocaded gros de tours with a binding warp taken from the ground. The pattern is bound in 3/1 twill. Warp count is approximately 192 threads to the inch.
Cords in design 192/4 x 10 = approx. 480
Selvages is 0.375 inch white tabby with four green stripes and one outer cord.
Plain weave ground in white silk, with supplementary weft of white silk. Brocaded in 6 colours, bound in twill.
Selvedges - green stripes made by single warp threads.
Brocaded gros de tours with a binding warp taken from the ground. The patten is bound in 3-1 twill.
Width of repeat (point) 10 inches, découpure 4.
Length of repeat 22.75 inches.<b>Object Type</b><br>This fabric is a brocaded silk and was intended for ladies' gowns. The technique of brocading allowed different colours to be introduced into the pattern of a fabric in specific, sometimes very small areas. It was a more laborious process for the weaver than using patterning wefts running from selvedge to selvedge, but the resulting effect could be much more varied and lively.<br><br><b>Design & Designing</b><br>The type of pattern repeat in this silk was known as a point repeat, in which the pattern appeared in mirror image to either side of a central axis. It gave quite a formal effect to the pattern, in which balance was very important, but the overall effect could be lightened with delicate drawing of the individual motifs. Here the leaf sprigs are overlaid as if built up in a natural arrangement of real plant life.Three dress fabrics of brocaded silk, Spitalfields, London, 1724-1725