Early 17th century embroidery was much admired in the late 19th century, particular by those involved in the Arts and Crafts movement. It is clear that many coifs now in the V&A had been framed and displayed in private homes before entering the Museum's collection.
This unusual example was clearly found unfinished in the late 19th century and someone completed the embroidery. The later embroiderer did not have the original colours and did not know the 17th century stitches. He or she attempted to match the shades with available threads and finished the design with satin stitch and purl stitches.
As coifs were no longer worn in late Victorian Britain, the uncut shape was converted into a small cushion cover by hand-sewing another rectangle of linen to the back.A coif of linen, embroidered with silk thread in shades of blue, green, red, pink and yellow in detached buttonhole and raised buttonhole stitch. The pattern consists of scrolling stems bearing leaves, borage, pansy, roses, columbine, honeysuckle, rose hips and strawberries. The drawn shape includes curved cheek pieces and a widow's peak. The embroidery is unfinished and the coif uncut. Sometime probably in the late 19th century the embroidery was finished with thicker silk thread in shades of blue, green, pink and yellow, in satin and purl stitch. An additional rectangle of linen was added at the back and stitched around three sides. The thread count of the original linen is 100 x 120 threads per inch, approximately.A woman's coif of linen, 1620-40, English; embroidered with silk in floral design, unfinished with later additions and alterations