felted wool; patchwork, 1800-1840, PersianResht work, plain weave felted wool, patchwork, inlaid work, applique, embroidered with silk in a variety of stitches predominantly chain stitch with straight stitches and French knots and with metal thread and metal spangles.
The central panel depicts a standing female figure, full-length, on a pieced grey ground. She is holding a drinking glass in her left hand and a long-necked flask in her right hand. Her tunic is red and is decorated with white botehs with spangles. Under this there is a pale pink transparent blouse with hanging sleeves. This is embroidered over a layer of gauze. The skirt was applique using woollen fabric woven with a shawl design over a turquoise ground. Her shoes are black with red felt indicating henna on the soles of her feet. A wide variety of spangles have been used in quantity, decorating the headdress and accessories and indicating jewellery. There are also embroidered white dots possibly denoting pearls. There is a tattoo mark on her forehead and on her chin.
There are borders on three sides [not along the lower edge].
Inner border: black ground with a white embroidered meander bearing red rosettes, white pointed flowers, red, yellow and blue leaves.
Main border: red ground with a beautiful floral pattern: two white undulating stems with fronds and leaves in three shades of green. One stems bears a cluster of composite blossoms in two different arrangements. The other stem bears sprays of blue rounded flowers. Along the upper edge there are three medallions each containing a head and shoulder portrait. The medallion at each corner depicts a woman and the one in the centre depicts a turbaned male.
Outer border: darker red ground with a similar design to the inner border but with more embroidered detail.
Outermost border: on all four sides; undecorated purple.
The piecing was done before the embroidery was worked. Red and white cord and black and white cord cover the seams.
Embroidery thread: 2S silk, white, three shades of pink, red, blue, black, yellow, light yellow, light green, light blue, dark green, dark yellow, grey.
Metal thread: on the headdress, silver and silver-gilt strip close S-wound on light beige silk.
Inset wool: grey, turquoise, light turquoise, white, dark yellow [or orange], red, light and dark green, black, dark grey, dark red, purple, light blue, light beige.