woven silk twill, faced with bias cut plain weave silk and lined with plain weave block printed cotton.
Multi-pieced silk with floating wefts on the reverse with back inserts and [folded] back sleeves showing patterning inverted. The garment has a full length inverted conical opening [ie. no cross over] with a reinforced neckband in same fabric. It is formed of one back panel seamed at the shoulder with various shaped inserts back and front to form a seamed but edged hipped outline. The long sleeves are set at right angles to the main panels but left open/unseamed joining onto the open gusset. A short loop linking the sleeve edges is placed at the elbow area using the facing silk. The sleeve tapers slightly to a central pointed cuff. Both shoulder seams show the ends of the loom piece: 4 green wefts either side of 6 yellow wefts.
The main silk is a deep yellow silk twill patterned with a small stylised boteh motif in crimson and blue with pink-brown details and green leaves. Arranged in offset rows, one row facing left and the next facing right. The weft floats on the back.
Warp: yellow Z-twist silk
Weft: silk, orange, pink, red, blue, green, brown: Z-twist
The facings are black silk.
Lining: plain weave cotton, white ground printed with oval-shaped floral sprays. Light green leaves, dark green stems and flowers and buds in red, pink, yellow and purple. A small unbacked independent pocket is placed high on the right front and a larger pocket is on the left hand side. Both are made from the lining fabric.Middle East, Textile; woven silk, 1800s, Persian