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About: 1600 / 1625, England     Permalink

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Linen embroidered coif with black silk in stem, chain and speckling stitches and with silver-gilt thread in chain, vandyke, plaited braid, and ladder stitches with spider knots. The edges are turned and hemmed with linen thread and over sewn with black silk in open knotted buttonhole stitch. The neck edge is plain for the last half inch and has a series of button holed loops attached to the edge to take the draw-string. The original open-work crown seam has been replaced by a modern seam and the crown is simply gathered to take the fullness. Three and a half horizontal rows of coiling stem which are also linked vertically to produce a tightly-knit over-all pattern. The coils contain (left to right), peas, foxgloves, carnation, columbine, pea, foxglove (part): rose, borage, exotic, honeysuckle, rose; cornflower, strawberry, pear, rose, cornflower, strawberry (last row not clear).

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