Wide legged 'mashru' trousers were fashionable female dress in Northern India during much of the 19th century. Unlike the tapering cut of the pyjama, these huge trousers have wide, straight legs, joined by a triangular insert to provide expansion. 'Mashru' is a satin weave cloth with a combination of a cotton weft and silk warp, the cotton weft being the lower layer in contact with the skin. The fabric was originally woven for Muslim men who were prohibited from wearing pure silk. 'Mashru' (meaning 'permitted' in Arabic) was woven all over India, though it survives today mainly in Gujarat. Waistband embroidered with gold and silver wrapped thread and gold foil.