Silk and wool, warp threads dyed in multiple colors prior to weaving; center of weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill weave; patterned areas of weft-float faced 3:1 twill weave with supplementary patterning wefts bound in weft-float faced 1:3 'Z' twill interlacings over warp-float faced twill weave; main warp fringe; woven on loom with Jacquard attachment