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About: 1870 / 1899, Tunisia     Permalink

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Man's robe of striped cotton embroidered with silk and trimmed with added cotton fringes. Made from one piece of cloth joined at the top and down one side, leaving holes for the arms and at the neck. The neck hole, only 4 inches across, is shaped and has a slip 5.5 inches long to one side. With decorative stripe patterns, horizontal on the loom and vertical on the robe. Thick self-colour stripes, joined by shoots of thicker cotton weft unevenly spun, are flanked by narrow strips where the weft is less tightly beaten together than in the main body of the material, giving a three dimensional effect. In addition, at intervals of over a foot (12 inches), are single rows of knots in white and red cotton, round four or five warp threads with a pile of over two inches, forming fringes. These alternate with bands of flat woven decoration with small repeating geometric motifs in blue, red-brown, yellow and white. The stripes of the flat decoration and three of the tufted are on each side of the robe, with an extra narrower stripe of the flat decoration under the armhole without the join. The join and edges of slits are neatly covered by a very narrow braid of red, white, blue, green and yellow silk. Additional lengths of braid, ending in tufts of coloured silk, decorate the lines of shoulders and neck. A free-running cord with tassel connects the points between the shaped neck and shoulder slit.

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