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About: 1800 / 1805, England     Permalink

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Man’s court coat and waistcoat, the coat of brown silk velvet, uncut and voided in a chevron pattern. It has a standing 2-inch (5 cm) collar and curving 2-piece sleeves, slightly gathered into the sleeve-head and ending in cuffs, 4 inches (10 cm) deep. The fronts curve from neck to hem, with pleats beside the centre-back opening. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The waistcoat, sleeves and pocket flaps are lined with ivory silk twill, the pockets with bleached linen. The coat is interlined with padding in the chest and shoulders. The coat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in white and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar, cuffs and pocket flaps, around the pockets and along the front edges, side pleats and back opening. There are 3 embroidered buttonholes on the left front and 10 embroidered buttons on the right front edge, 3 below each pocket and 3 on each cuff. The waistcoat with a 1¼-inch (3.3 cm) standing collar, curving fronts and skirts reaching to the top of the thigh. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The fronts and pocket flaps are made of ribbed white silk; the back is cream worsted twill. The waistcoat and pockets are lined with linen; the front skirt and pocket-flap linings and front facings are white silk twill. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in red and shades of blue, pink, brown, yellow and green, in a pattern of flowers and leaves, on the collar and pocket flaps, and along the front edges and hems, with a repeating pattern of leaves on the fronts. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front with 11 embroidered buttons on the right front. The ensemble was altered in the 19th century, probably for fancy dress. The pleats of the coat were stitched down and a wig-bag sewn to the back neck Three pairs of silk ribbon ties were added to the back of the waistcoat.

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