Silk and gilt-metal-strip wrapped silk, warp-float faced satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary brocading and self-patterning ground wefts; orphrey: warp-float faced satin weave with twill interlacings of secondary binding warps and supplementary brocading and self-patterning complementary ground wefts and areas self-patterned by plain interlacing; edges: float weave with complementary wefts and inner warps