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About: 1790, Italy     Permalink

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Man’s court waistcoat with a 1½-inch (3.7 cm) standing collar, straight fronts and skirts reaching to the hip. Each front has a pocket and pointed pocket flap. The fronts, collar and pocket flaps are made of white silk satin, the back of linen. The waistcoat and pockets are lined with linen; the collar with white silk satin; the skirt and pocket flap linings and front facings are white silk satin. A ¼ inch wide ribbon of black silk, embroidered in triangles with pink silk floss, is applied to the collar, pocket flaps, front edges and hems. The waistcoat is embroidered-to-shape with silk floss in black, white and shades of green, pink, brown and purple in a pattern of flowers and leaves, with cartouches in irregular ‘vermicelli’ shapes, on the fronts, pocket flaps and collar. There are 9 worked buttonholes along the left front with 9 embroidered buttons on the right front. The waistcoat was altered in the late 19th century, probably for theatrical costume or fancy dress; wide insertions of cotton, with ties attached, were made in each side seam.

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