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About: 1800 / 1899, Iran     Permalink

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Brocaded silk and metal thread, satin ground, faced with roller printed cotton and plain weave silk with a cord button. Six panels seamed to form a loose T-shaped robe with gussets under the arms. Cream satin ground with a small leafy lozenge lattice delineated in white; alternate compartments contain a simple rosette in silver-gilt or a short four-line inscription in blue, red or silver-gilt, so forming vertical stripes. The sleeve ends, neck band and front chest opening are faced with one or more roller-printed plain weave cottons: around the neck a rust red ground with a large chevron repeat of brown and white with brown and dark brown bands. Also, but possibly from another fabric, a predominantly white roller-printed plain weave cotton bearing a rust red Greek Key band with a light brown 4-petalled rosette and down one side a series of thin red lines. The sleeve cuffs, again roller-printed plain weave cotton in same colouring but patterned with a series of white diagonal stripes carrying small stylised floral elements. On the left upper front there is an attached band/facing of dark blue plain weave silk with a series of narrow stripes, one plain, the others with a yellow chevron pattern with crimson red and light blue edging. This carries a silk loop embellished with silver strip, while a conical button worked in silver thread is on the opposite side. Originally the front panels from below the neck opening was decorated with tuck embroidered with silver-gilt [31 cm long], of which only 8 cm survives. This section is faced with roller-printed plain weave cotton in same colouring but patterned with a series of white diagonal stripes carrying small stylised floral elements [see sleeve cuffs]. Warp: white silk Weft: white silk, Z-twist, red S-twist and blue Z-twist. Metal Thread: silver-gilt close Z-wound on yellow silk core. The metal thread embroidered in the centre panel is silver-gilt strip on a bronze coloured silk core. The metal thread on the button is silver Z-wound on light beige silk. There is one selvedge: one cord with two white stripes. Some panels at the sides are upside down. Inside, at the level of the underarm gussets is a narrow white cotton tape which runs down the seams.

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