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P3 has note
  • 1931 Descrition: Panel (from a skirt?). silk and cotton on brown cotton. Darning stitch. This panel is approximately similar to T.33-1931. 1975 Description: One panel of a huipil from Totonicapan. T.33 and T.34-1931 are not panels from a skirt but are two halves of an Indian blouse (huipil) from the village of Totonicapan or the surrounding area. They would have been sewn together with a hole cut out for the head and slits left in the side seams for the arms. It is not uncommon to have the two halves of a huipil as different in size as these two are, as they were woven separately. A similar garment made up of two such different sized panels is illustrated by L M O'Neale in Textiles of the Highlands of Guatemala plates 95a and 95b; see also p.304. Plain weave ground made of natural, undyed cotton known as CUYUSCATE or IXCACO (Gossypium Mexicanum). This cotton has always been highly valued by local weavers. The woven design is both single faced and double faced brocade weaving done with white and mauve silk and several colours of cotton. Several pattern wefts are used together in each pick so the pattern stands out from the ground cloth. These pieces are woven on a backstrap loom and therefore have 4 selvedges each. Dye Analysis (Carlsen & Wenger, undertaken 1988, published 1991): The red cotton isdyed with Alizarin. The red wool is dyed with cochineal. The purple cototn is dyed with purpura. Technical Details (1995) Warp: 46 threads per inch; brown cotton; Z-spun, unplied. Weft: 24 threads per inch; brown cotton; Z-spun, unplied. There is some red cotton weft (Z2S) loosely spun which has relaxed and looks like 2 parallel threads along the lower and upper edges. There are loosely packed weft threads about 1" from the lower edge as numbered. Lower Edge: 9 passes of red cotton. Upper Edge: 10 passes of red cotton. Brocading: 8 different types/colours of thread: red cotton (Z7S); yellow cotton (Z5S); yellow floss silk (faded to cream); light green cotton (Z7S); dark blue cotton (Z4S); purple cotton (S3Z - probably machine spun, tightly and regularly twisted); light purple floss silk; white floss silk. Note: the number of threads plied together does vary and suggests that the weaver used whatever combination took her fancy. Possibly these two panels were not intended for the same huipil as there is a difference not only in the size but also in the deisgn, number of colours, types of thread and ground colour. But perhaps it didn't matter to the purchaser. (en)
P2 has type
crmsci:O8_observed
is P129 is about of
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