About: 1800 / 1860, Iran   Goto Sponge  NotDistinct  Permalink

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F, woven silk, 1800-1860, Persian

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rdf:type
rdfs:label
  • 1800 / 1860, Iran
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  • F, woven silk, 1800-1860, Persian (en)
  • Woven silk and metal thread trimmed with silk cut velvet, silk cord and tassels and lined with plain weave glazed cotton. The trousers are pieced: two folded widths seamed to the waist band to form the legs, pieced sections of the same fabric form an inverted triangle for the crotch; four small pieced fragments of another fabric at the inner crotch apex. Black velvet and braid form cuff at the ankles and there is a black silk waistband with a drawstring. The trousers are fully lined. Main Fabric: plain weave silk with pink warp patterned with a series of diagonal stripes, alternately one wide, one narrower on a gold yellow ground with metallic thread. The former contains a generously multi-stemmed meander of a narrow white stem holding a number of 4- and 8-petalled flower heads and buds in mainly coral red, dark blue and grey with green leaves; there are also stylised irises in grey or dark blue with details in coral red. The narrower stripe has the same gold yellow ground and contains a simpler white meander holding grey and green leaves and simple dark blue, coral red or grey 5-petalled rosettes; all are outlined in white. The stripes are separated by a rather irregular thin diagonal coral red band with small white arrowheads. There is a weft stripe at both ends of the trouser leg again using the same ground banded in white and grey and holding large stylised coral red and small dark blue flower heads, small green leaves and white stems. At the top [waist] end this leads directly [ie. unseamed] into a differently patterned section of the same fabric, of the gold yellow now forming a simple repeat pattern of small stylised flowers and leaves linked by stems, on a grey, or in some places dark brown, ground. This dark ground is formed by the deliberate change of weft. On the inside join of this to the waistband there is a weft line of about 6 shoots of green silk. Silk: warp = 6S-plied pink; weft = white, pink [faded red?], green, blue, gold yellow, grey. Metal thread: silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core. The inner apex crotch area is pieced from another plain weave silk fabric, again with a gold yellow ground with the remains of some tarnished metal thread. It appears to have a leafy ogival lattice in white edged in light brown, each compartment framing a spray of pink roses and buds with green leaves. It is faded and discoloured. Silk: warp = S-twisted light brown silk; weft = white, light brown, pink, green, gold yellow, no discernable twist. Metal thread: silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core. Waistband: 4.5 cm folded bias-cut plain weave back silk. Cuffs: 7 cm black silk cut velvet with grey silk weft, banded with black silk cord and the remains of two black silk tassels on each inner side. The trousers are lined with dark green plain weave glazed cotton. (en)
sameAs
dc:identifier
  • 961-1889
P3 has note
  • F, woven silk, 1800-1860, Persian (en)
  • Woven silk and metal thread trimmed with silk cut velvet, silk cord and tassels and lined with plain weave glazed cotton. The trousers are pieced: two folded widths seamed to the waist band to form the legs, pieced sections of the same fabric form an inverted triangle for the crotch; four small pieced fragments of another fabric at the inner crotch apex. Black velvet and braid form cuff at the ankles and there is a black silk waistband with a drawstring. The trousers are fully lined. Main Fabric: plain weave silk with pink warp patterned with a series of diagonal stripes, alternately one wide, one narrower on a gold yellow ground with metallic thread. The former contains a generously multi-stemmed meander of a narrow white stem holding a number of 4- and 8-petalled flower heads and buds in mainly coral red, dark blue and grey with green leaves; there are also stylised irises in grey or dark blue with details in coral red. The narrower stripe has the same gold yellow ground and contains a simpler white meander holding grey and green leaves and simple dark blue, coral red or grey 5-petalled rosettes; all are outlined in white. The stripes are separated by a rather irregular thin diagonal coral red band with small white arrowheads. There is a weft stripe at both ends of the trouser leg again using the same ground banded in white and grey and holding large stylised coral red and small dark blue flower heads, small green leaves and white stems. At the top [waist] end this leads directly [ie. unseamed] into a differently patterned section of the same fabric, of the gold yellow now forming a simple repeat pattern of small stylised flowers and leaves linked by stems, on a grey, or in some places dark brown, ground. This dark ground is formed by the deliberate change of weft. On the inside join of this to the waistband there is a weft line of about 6 shoots of green silk. Silk: warp = 6S-plied pink; weft = white, pink [faded red?], green, blue, gold yellow, grey. Metal thread: silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core. The inner apex crotch area is pieced from another plain weave silk fabric, again with a gold yellow ground with the remains of some tarnished metal thread. It appears to have a leafy ogival lattice in white edged in light brown, each compartment framing a spray of pink roses and buds with green leaves. It is faded and discoloured. Silk: warp = S-twisted light brown silk; weft = white, light brown, pink, green, gold yellow, no discernable twist. Metal thread: silver-gilt strip open S-wound on yellow silk core. Waistband: 4.5 cm folded bias-cut plain weave back silk. Cuffs: 7 cm black silk cut velvet with grey silk weft, banded with black silk cord and the remains of two black silk tassels on each inner side. The trousers are lined with dark green plain weave glazed cotton. (en)
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  • 1800 / 1860, Iran
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