used
| - woven silk satin embroidered with couched metal thread, backed with block-printed glazed cotton and faced with bias-cut silk and metal thread twill.
The central field is decorated with a large lobed octagonal star, couched to form a twill effect, framing a central 8-pointed star in metal thread forming a series of criss-cross lozenges, and from each of the 8 points emerges either a lily form or an iris type flower head with pink/green details or pink and blue details. The four corner units echo the large lobed frame with a twill effect and both frames carry composite flower and blossom motifs mainly in metallic thread but also with blue, light blue, pink, yellow and dark green details. The corners themselves are couched forming 2 chevron triangles.
The four sides then lead into a wide border carrying a thin interrupted meander which carries large blossoms or buds in four variations employing couching to give a twill, chevron or lozenge effect with coloured silks. Ten lines of laid and couched stitching form a narrow band top and bottom.
Backing: block-printed glazed cotton with a white ground; two diagonal lines of tiny red, purple and blue flowers forming a regular trellis each lozenge holding a tri-stemmed floral spray in two variations in each of every 2 rows. The colours dark blue, purple, red and green predominate.
Facing: bias-cut, pieced to form 4 chevron units. A silk twill patterned with alternating narrow warp stripes of [a] red warp bearing an isolated flower head in light blue and dark grey with small highlights in silver metal thread; [b] a toothed silver metal thread stripe with white warp threads holding a thin green meander with small red and green leaf forms and a light blue rosette. The metal thread is silver strip close S-wound on a white silk core.
Embroidery Threads: 2S-plied silk: pink, light yellow, light green, dark green, light blue, dark blue, faded red.
Metal thread: silver-gilt strip close S-wound around a white silk core. (en)
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