| used
| - woven silk, 1800s, Persian (en)
- Jacket of woven silk and metal thread lined with woven woollen twill and faced with woollen twill, woven woven and interlined in part with printed cotton. Trimmed with couched gold cord and fastened with metal buttons.
Long-sleeved, hip length jacket, probably altered at some point. Central back panel which ends just below the shoulders and tapers towards the bottom. There are lots and lots of small pieces of the same fabric added to form the side panels and a pronounced curved section over
The hips. The same fabric forms the front panels. There is a rectangular opening for the neck which extends down the front; it seems like there had originally been an overlap at the bottom. The same fabric, pieced, forms the lower part of the two long, pointed sleeves.
The main fabric is striped silk and metal thread: there is a red-orange stripe with a meander and circular blossom in metal thread [silver-gilt close S-wound on a pale yellow silk core]; white stripe with a meander with green leaves and red flower; black stripe with a gold leaf and gold-edged red boteh. Lots of metal thread has been used and is in good condition.
A different fabric has been used across the top, back and front: four strips of bias-cut woven silk and metal thread. Meander with a blue flower, a diagonal pink flower and a pale bud. The metal thread is silver strip close S-wound on a yellow silk core. The same fabric forms a narrow strip below each sleeve. The sleeves are open under the arms and then seamed until halfway down, where they begin the taper; from there the sleeve is open and partially lined with the main striped fabric and also with a patterned woven wool.
Gold metal cord has been stitched in a scrolling pattern around the underside of the sleeve end and on the lower outer side, half way down the sleeve where 15 small round metal buttons line up with red loops.
Linings: the sleeves and the bodice are lined with red woollen twill. The lower part of the sleeve is lined with dark blue wool with a pattern of different sizes of boteh.
Interlining: in the lower sleeves: white cotton printed with red flowers.
Facing: the front edges, the hem and the side slits were originally faced with a woollen fabric, now badly moth eaten, which probably matched the woollen sleeve lining.
There is a rectangular pocket inside the left front panel: red cotton printed with a busy stylized floral pattern. Contains 4 metal buttons wrapped in tissue paper. (en)
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