Silk twill brocaded with silk and metal thread. Directional design with the top of the pattern at the bottom of the panel, so that the wearer saw the correct pattern. Displayed behind glass. Displayed upside down. Warp: dark mauve silk. Weft: Silk: blue, pink, light green, dark green, white, orange. Brocaded weft: Silk:white; metal thread: silver-gilt strip on white silk core and gilt strip S-wound on a Z-twisted yellow silk core. Selvedge on left hand side: 2 cords of cotton; cut down right hand side. Loose warp ends top and bottom. There is a border along the top: narrow band with fine diagonal stripes, a chequered band, blue, pink and green chevrons and another chequered band. There is a very deep border at the bottom described from its upper band down: chequered band either side of a chevron band [called a]; a band with a pink rosette alternating with a green star-like flowers; repeat of [a]; a deep band divided into an ogival lattice by green band, each section containing a downward pointing blossom with a pair of green leaves and with small green buds hanging from the upper part of the ogee; a variation of [a]. The pattern is a series of green and pink diagonal lines from lower right to upper left pattern with the central pink line decorated with a green leafy meander. There are two sizes of stripes: [1] narrow stripes: light blue ground packed with a leafy meander, buds and flowers, including an iris; predominant colour is pink with metal thread. The same pattern is repeated on a light green ground. [2] wider stripe with four repeating diamond shaped patterns: downward pointing stem with 3 pink blossoms; arrangement of many small white and metal thread flowers; variation of stem with 3 pink blossoms; downward pointing stem with 7 white and metal thread flowers around a central pink and metal thread flower.
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