| used
| - embroidered, 1800-1860, Persian (en)
- Long-sleeved, mid-thigh length jacket of dark red silk satin embroidered with silk in straight stitches and with couched metal thread, lined with resist and block printed cotton and faced with silk and cotton satin.
There are shoulder seams and the sleeves have been set in at right angles. The cuff tapers to form a small point and the sleeve is completely open from just below the arm hole. Six short lengths of blue silk have been stitched across the sleeve to prevent it from falling open. There is a slight curve over the hip and the lower part of each side seam is open. There is a rectangular panel on the inner side of the right front; a piece of black tape [replaced] has been attached to the upper corner. The lining fabric has been used to make a tie down the left hand side seam, to secure the flap. Over this [ie. Fastening left over right] is an angled panel with an embroidered button [green silk] which will fasten in a green cord loop at the right hand side at waist level. This arrangement creates a narrow rectangular neck opening. There is an integral embroidered border about each cuff, across the left hand front flap and down its edge, along the hem and up both sides as far as the waist.
Couched metal thread [silver strip open S-wound on a white silk core] creates the ground on which there is a fine black meander with blue and pink carnations, each with 3 petals. The border is edged with laid black silk couched with gold thread [silver strip close S-wound on a yellow silk core].
The main fabric has been cut through the embroidery. It is a complex design, reminiscent of carpet patterns in which one pattern has been laid over another. Down the back there are 3 composite blossoms worked in silver and gold thread with predominantly blue details. Leafy stems criss-cross the ground through exotic blossoms and serrated curling stems. Down the centre back are 5 isolated circular coils of metal thread.
Embroidery Silk: 2S: blue, light blue, black, green, light green, white, red, pink, light pink.
Metal Thread: silver strip close S- wound on white silk core couched with white silk; silver-gilt strip close S-wound on white silk core couched with pink silk; silver-gilt strip close S-wound on yellow silk core couched with pink silk.
Facing: bias cut light blue satin.
Lining: mustard coloured cotton ground printed with a half-drop repeat of an oval floral arrangement with small green leaves at the base, white, red, purple and yellow flowers and a large red carnation at the top with a pair of white leaves. (en)
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