| used
| - Object Type
This patterned silk could have been chosen by a male or a female customer, since in this period its pattern would have been considered suitable for both sexes. We know that in this case it came from a woman's gown, as it shows traces of where it had been pleated into the waistband of a petticoat.
Design & Designing
The silk is thought to be English, dating from about 1709, because of its similarity to designs of this date by James Leman. Leman was born into a weaving family of Huguenot (French Protestant) descent and was apprenticed to his father, on whose death he took over the family business in Spitalfields, London. He trained as a designer as well as a manufacturer, very unusually for the English industry. His dated designs from the early 18th century are the earliest proof of the high standards being achieved in English silk-weaving, in competition with imports from France.
Materials & Making
The fairly complicated woven structure of this silk allows its limited range of colours to achieve maximum effect. Against the bold green satin of the ground the different shades of pink and cream vary in the details they pick out, highlighting the sprays of blossom and painted porcelain. (en) - British Galleries:
The designer of this silk was inspired by goods from the Indies. The porcelain vases and other motifs were thought to have an exotic feel. Raw silk was one of the most important Chinese commodities imported by the East India Company in the late 17th century. [27/03/2003] (en)
- Dress fabric of brocaded silk satin. On a background of cream silk twill and spotted in broad bands of magenta, alternating with mixed pink and white spots, are shapes of East Asian fans and vases woven in green satin. There forms, which vary in size from 14 to 0.75 inch have further decoration, mostly of delicate sprays of flowers rising from rocks. The colours of this decoration are the same as those of the spots and background.
Width of repeat has two repeats in the width of the material. Selvedge in satin in red and pink silk striped with three white threads. Five outer cords. Ground of satin of 5. Pattern bound in 3/1 twill. (en)
- Dress fabric of brocaded silk satin, Spitalfields, London, ca. 1709 (en)
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