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  • Nô is the classical theatre of Japan which was codified in the 14th century by the father and son actors Kan'ami and Zeami under the patronage of the shôgun (supreme military leader) Ashikaga Yoshimitsu. Under Yoshimitsu the Zen principles of restraint, understatement, economy of movement and frugality of expression became incorporated into the performance. By the early seventeenth century Nô had become an even more austere and formalised drama reserved almost exclusively for the ruling military elite. The kariginu has its origins in the style of wide-sleeved hunting cloak worn as an informal garment by courtiers of the Heian period (794-1185). The kariginu in the Nô drama is an outer robe to be worn by actors in the role of nobles or gods. This striking and luxurious lined kariginu is made from dark green silk with bold design in gold (kinran) of interlocking hexagons (kikkô), sixteen-petalled chrysanthemums (kiku) and flaming wheel roundels containing triple-comma motifs (mitsu-tomoe). In performance, the kariginu is traditionally worn over another robe such as the atsuita. (en)
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